Today I had to go to San Salvador to drop off a solicitation letter to the CSSP (Ministry of Health).  This is a NEW requirement from last year.  Why they could not tell me that last week when I dropped off the inventory and the letter of solicitation from the Berlin doctor, I’m not sure.  Unless it is such a new thing that the secretary who received the paperwork last week did not even know. 

Oh well.  So I went.  It is a bit frustrating.  It is a two hour drive.  And this particular visit lasted about 10 minutes while the secretary verified that this is indeed what they needed and that now they had everything they needed to review it next Wednesday and hopefully approve it.

So four hours in the car for a 10 minute CSSP visit.  Sigh.

Fortunately, I had another reason to be in San Salvador.  A woman who I ‘met’ via email was visiting her son and his wife and their babies.  She was visiting to help them for a couple of weeks after the birth of their beautiful new daughter. 

I ‘met’ this woman when she emailed explaining that she was going to be in El Salvador and had to bring an empty suitcase so was there anything the Pastoral House could use so she could make good use of that empty suitcase.  Well of course, there are always needs here.  Usually over the counter medicines and/or vitamins.  People come to the door her all the time in need of those items.  And when we have them, we dispense them – unfortunately, the needs are usually greater than what we sometimes have on hand. 

So I had given her a list of things we could use: vitamins for adults and children, cold medicines, Ibuprophen, etc.

Jody and her son Spence met me at CSSP and I followed them in his car to their home.  They live within a block of the U.S. Embassy.  And I found out that they live right next door (literally) to the helicopter pad attached to the home of former president Christiani.  And sure enough, a helicopter landed twice while I was there!  It was a bit surreal.

We had a lovely visit.  I found out we had many Iowa connections.  Jody currently lives in Texas with her husband but she was from Clive and went to Westminster!  And Spencer’s dad even lived on the same street as me in Clive.  What a small world. 

They invited me to lunch and I enjoyed a lovely cold pasta salad with black olives and I THINK artichoke hearts – so unlike the foods here – it was a bit of a pleasant surprise.  And I got to hold a two week old baby.  And play with the cutest 15 month old boy.  He reminded me of my boys when they were babies.

I left about 2:45 and stopped at a grocery store on the way out of town.   I made it home by about 5.  Alicia was waiting for me.  She reminded me that I had promised that we would walk the Via Cruz.  This is the every Friday Lenten procession for the Stations of the Cross that takes place after the 5 p.m. mass.

I was SO tired.  And I hesitated because I knew that it would last almost 3 hours … I was going to try to ‘beg off’ but she told me I had to go read my email.  She told me that after I read the one from her, I would gladly accompany her for the procession.

The memo section merely said “ICK” – Here is what she wrote:

“I just wanted to let you know that you really dodged a bullet today at lunch. That's right. They served Torta de Pescado again. It was awful. I almost died. God must really be watching out for you. And I'm starting to wonder what I did to make God punish me this way. Jesús also looked pained when he ate the Torta. He swished water around in his mouth when he'd finished. I hope you enjoyed your lunch. I'm going to go get a snack.”

I laughed out loud.  A couple weeks ago we had been served this traditional Friday during Lent meal and even I thought it was ghastly.  And even I could not eat it and I can eat almost anything!   Both Alisha and I had snuck as much as we could into the trash and buried it deep that day.  

Pescado is fish… Torta is I’m not sure what.  However it is prepared, it is salty, slimy, mushy, very fishy in flavor and smell and (to me) just plain ucky.  

So I figured I owed her!

So we went.  I had considered asking if we could sneak away about half way through.  The Via Cruz is a procession that we honor and remember the walk that Jesus took to the cross.  During the procession, the leader – a different person each time -  says a reflection, reads a scripture about this particular station, says another reflection, then we say together the Lord’s Prayer, Hail Mary and a couple other little things, and then we all move on to the next Station while walking very slowly and singing). But by the time we got to the 8^th Station, I decided I could keep going.  

By the time we got back, we were quite hungry and I was bone tired.  But I’m glad she ‘guilted’ me into going. 

I noticed a comment from my friend Patti... She was asking how much a bag of fertilizer costs?

The best type - that seems to work best here - is a pre-emergent.  It is called "Formula" and at the moment it costs about $59 per 220 pound bag.  This is about enough for one 'manzana' (almost 2 acres) of land. 

There is another type that is applied about a month after planting ... it is called Sulfato and costs about $40 per bag.  This is not nearly as effective as the Formula.  When people can, they use both. 

These prices change every Monday.  Last year in April, they were $78 for Formula and about $56 for the Sulfato.  I think the prices rise the closer it comes to planting time. 

Most people don't think this far ahead to take advantage of the lower prices.  We did only because of St. Boniface in Waukee (hope they don't mind me naming names!!).  They wanted to buy fertilizer for their partner community.   And that is when we discovered the much lower prices in January. 

Thanks for asking Patti!!

... with those who have to walk to San Francisco.

Hooray Alisha.  She likes to walk and experience things.  And she is pushing me to my limits.  And that is a good thing.

Today we had on the calendar that we were going to visit San Francisco.  This is the partner community to Alisha’s church (Westminster Presbyterian).   I was originally planning to drive, but then I thought … she wanted to walk to Alejandria – and we did.  She wants to walk to the cross on the top of the mountain overlooking Berlin – and she will … so why not walk to San Francisco?

So I talked to Miguel (the S.F. Pastoral Team liaison) and we set up the time.  I apologized and reminded him that someone would have to walk back down to Berlin with us – and he said he would do that.  Keep in mind he lives in San Francisco.  So he walked down to the Pastoral House to fetch us, walked back up with us.  Walked back down with us and then had to walk back up again to go home.

What a trooper!

We left the house about 1:50.  And we walked and talked.  It was not a fast pace and quite frankly, not a difficult walk.  But I imagine we walked a little slower than Miguel would have if we weren’t with him.  We took a back path as a short cut around the cemetery but ended up on the main road leading out of Berlin and up the mountain.

It took us about 40 minutes.  Not too bad.  A funny thing – we were on the main road and we could hear a car coming.  It is a curvy mountain road of course, so we move to the side.  Along came a police car.  We smiled as they approached and they stopped and asked where we were going.  They were quite nice really.  They offered us a ride.  But I told them it was good for us to walk to really understand and get to know the struggles of the walk to the nearest canton.   

As soon as we turned the corner to head up the little road to the church where we were to meet some of the youth group, we saw Alisha’s friend Maria and her little girl.  Perfect timing!  Alisha had a letter for her and we had to take photos of course.  They chatted a little while.  Maria is quite pregnant and we oohed and aahed over her large tummy.  She is due this very month. 

Miguel told me the kids were waiting for us in the church.  So while Alisha said goodbye to Maria, I headed in.  What a surprise I saw!  There were a ton of kids there!  They had the chairs all set up in a large circle and they were all waiting for us.  I counted 21 … and we later learned that there are about 30 in total in the church youth group.  This is a huge growth from last year when there were only 11.  How cool is that!

I smiled and said ‘hola’ and in unison they said it back.  So I joked and said it again.  It was like a chorus I told them.  And that we needed to work on the harmony next!

Alisha and I sat down with them and the young man in charge said a few words of welcome and suggested we make introductions.  He said everyone should say their name and how long they have been in the group.  I asked them to also tell us how old they were.  They ranged in age between 10 and 29 but most of them were in their teens.  There were some that had been there since the beginning (over a year) and a couple that it was their first time!

Alisha was asked to say a few words as representative of her church.  She did well considering she was put on the spot.  And of course, I can’t resist saying a few things.  Miguel spoke as did Daniel (the Delegate of the Word in San Francisco).  Alisha asked what kinds of activities they do.  We were told they get together to talk about “themes” (discussion topics), and sometimes just get together to try to support each other as friends.  They are becoming ‘community’ it sounded to me. 

It was a great visit.  We only stayed about an hour but it was enough.  Hopefully they were inspired to continue on and stay together and continue supporting each other.  

So we began our trek back down the mountain.  

The walk was pleasant.  It was certainly not as strenuous as the walk to Alejandria or San Lorenzo.  It is still a two mile hike.  First downhill (maybe a mile) then uphill the second mile.  But there is enough variation in the road – level, not too steep for not too long… but a steady up hill for that second mile.  We were hot and tired when we got back, but not physically drained.  I think we both just felt good about the walk. 

And now I know that walk.      

I can’t believe it is March already. 

People here are beginning to think about sowing.  The rainy season comes about mid May and that is when they begin to plant their corn crops.  And those with experience are thinking ahead.  There are several church partners who support their community with the purchase of a sack or two of fertilizer for each family.    And communities that are really organized brought a ‘solicitude’ to the Pastoral House last November in hopes of fertilizer so their church partners could have time to fund-raise.

And now I want to tell you why a gift of fertilizer is so important.

Jobs are scarce.  60% of the folks in and around Berlín are unemployed or underemployed.  $3 per day is the minimum wage declared by the government – but in reality, there is no minimum wage – a typical income is $1 per day – IF one is lucky enough to even have a job.  And there is no minimum wage for agricultural workers.  Farmers might make $25 - $125 per year!

And pretty much the ONLY work in the cantons is agricultural.

Soil is almost totally depleted because of generations of abuse of the land: first by the Spaniards who stripped the land to grow indigo and cotton. Then when that was no longer a viable crop, more deforestation and slash/burn techniques so the land could support the coffee crops.  That really took its toll.  Now it is corn and beans. Farmers alternate these two crops on their little plots of land as the seasons change. 

And it is subsistence farming in the rural areas of Berlin.  People use their harvest to feed their families all year long.  And if they have a little corn or beans left over, it is sold for things like school supplies, food items they cannot grow themselves, their medical needs, etc. 

Without fertilizer, the harvest is less than half.  And that is NOT enough to even feed their family let alone have any left over to sell.  

Now here is another problem for farmers:

Most farmers are not the recipients of the gift of fertilizer so have to buy it.  They have to… otherwise there is hardly a crop to be had when all is said and done.

So they either sell a few chickens if they have any… or sell a cow or a pig (or 4) if they are lucky enough to have one.  

But if they have a cow, that provides the family’s milk … so they really don’t want to sell that.

So the majority of people take out a loan. 

No big deal you say.  EVERYONE has credit card debt! 

Let me tell you about debt here in this country - at least from the perspective of the small and poor farmer in our cantons – which would be the vast majority of people.  First I will give you my opinion (my humble opinion):  debt and credit companies are like a curse here.  

Let me tell you how I really feel and why: the credit companies take advantage of the desperate needs of the very poor farmers by giving them ‘easy’ loans to buy their fertilizer (we’re talking maybe a $60 or $100 loan).  They dispense those loans like candy.  “Sign here my friend” …

It is too easy.  You put your cow up for collateral…your house... your first born (I wouldn’t be surprised – but probably not).   If you own your little piece of land you might have to put that up for collateral.  

So the season passes, your crop is growing well and all seems good.  Then a hurricane hits the coast and the heavy and constant rains here in the mountain destroy the crop.  

Or early in the growing season, really heavy winds come and the budding bean plants lose their flowers and therefore their potential for fruit.

So you end up with a meager harvest.  Now you cannot feed your family nor sell a little for your other needs … and now you also have a $60 debt that you cannot pay.  Oh… I almost forgot to say: this loan will have about a 25 - 45% interest rate.

And you had put your land up for collateral – or your cow.  So now you are in danger of losing that.  

And it is inevitable.  Without a crop, you cannot pay your loan.  So you’ve lost what little you had.

It’s another manner of manipulating and taking advantage of the poor.

And like I said… without a generous partner church helping out with fertilizer, the majority of farmers here are in this sinking boat.

This week Otilia and I attended 2 meetings regarding the city’s plans to prevent the arrival of dengue.  Dengue is a mosquito born disease that can be troublesome and painful at least and deadly at most.  The symptoms start with a fever, headache, and severe body aches followed by vomiting and overall fatigue.  If it is ‘hemorrhaging dengue’ you will more than likely die.

And this time of year, the mosquitoes are absolutely horrible.  I have had larvae swimming in my pila twice now.  For those of you who don’t know yet, a pila is a large water holding receptacle – usually built out of cement.  It holds water for use when there is no running water.  People do their dishes, laundry and bathing at a pila.  Every house has one because water often does not run and it is a normal part of life here …

The first time I noticed the larvae in my pila, I was leaving to take Chon (our Spanish visitor) back to the airport.  Idalia said she would empty my pila and scrub it out and refill it while I was gone.  People really do take good care of me here!!  The second time I noticed the larvae, just this week, I decided to blast the pila with bleach.  I was a bit freaked out by the thought of having washed my hair with that water.  Uck.  I poured about 2 cups of bleach in my pila.  That did the trick.  Now when water runs, and I can turn on the tap to fill my pila every other morning, I let it over-flow for a couple of minutes.  The beginning stages of the larvae float.  My logic (actually I think it was Mike’s logic) is that with the overflowing of the pila, the floating larvae would go down the drain.  Good thinking.  And so far so good.  No new larvae this week.

Anyway – Otilia and I attended this meeting.  It is good to make appearances to these kinds of things because it shows community involvement by the Pastoral House.  I’m all for that.  We are, after all, beneficiaries of some of the activities and works that the city does.  And dengue prevention could sure benefit us all!

The first meeting on the 23^rd was informational: what dengue is: the symptoms, how it is spread, how to prevent, etc.  The local doctor presented us with this information.  The very same doctor who signed our letter of support that we need to present to the Ministry of Health and the Customs Agents at the airport to be allowed to bring a ton of medicines in for the Newton Medical delegation that comes in March.   After this information was presented, he briefly talked about what they were planning to do to prevent the risk here in Berlin.  After about two hours we ended with another meeting set to take place today (Friday).

Today’s meeting was more interactive and productive.  The attendees of these two meetings were from a variety of institutions: ProVida, the Police, City Hall, Red Cross, the Commandos (EMS people), and a variety of committee people: representatives from the city water committee, environmental committee, civil defense committee, etc.

Today we all put our heads together about how each of us could do our part to combat our mosquito problem.  They had a plan … a day to pick up trash, check pilas and then fumigate every house and business in town. 

The plan is to use the older high school kids in a day of service picking up trash.  They would be provided rubber gloves, large trash bags and drinking water.  We needed adult supervisors for this.  We are then having a group go door to door to check pilas and homes for stagnant water issues.  Then on the day of fumigation, we needed to secure enough fumigating whatchamajiggies, with properly trained people to run them and people to help temporarily evacuate homes for the fumigators and other technical support. 

It was good to listen to everybody – when a need for this or that came up, people would speak up and say that their organization could help with this or that.  The Pastoral House committed to helping with 100 of the 500 photocopies needed for the survey for 500 households, 100 large trash bags, drinking water and 2 people to help out on fumigation day. 

It was a good meeting.  And fumigation day is set for this coming Tuesday.